ALTER ANGLE – Berlin Fashion Week Designers’ Spotlight
02.07.2013 - 07.07.2013
During Berlin Fashion Week 2013, on July 2nd and 4th 2013, art house SomoS took a different look at fashion: presenting art, design showcases and performances devoted to fashion’s darker, daring and experimental aspects. Finessed fashion pieces and installations that exemplify the vibrancy of self-expression that is characteristic of Berlin’s creative underground and extreme club culture were complemented by a selection of artworks that addressed the themes of identity, fashion, and representation.
The designers segment presented the stark sensuous fetishistic jewelry of Chaca which contrasts female elegance with samurai severity. Aurelia Paumelle’s austere black and grey male clothing adopts the stripped down style developed in Berlin clubs like Tresor and Berghain, while Sadak’s shared his innovative vision of sexually transgressive folkloric urban maleness. Großer Heinrich’s compositions are distinguished by vibrant prints, breezy knits and smooth drapes. Truly innovative, Tata Christiane’s “absurd and disturbing vision of beauty” perfectly encapsulated SomoS’ aim to show the more creative and experimental sides of fashion design in a more conceptual way that gives insight into the designers’ vision.
Danish born jewellery designer Chaca Jacobsen’s ethos encompasses art, style, sophistication and a devotion to the handcrafted with a polished and meticulous finish. Trained in London and based in Berlin, already distinguished in several major European cities, from Zurich to Vienna and beyond, Chaca’s cutting-edge design is quickly taking it’s place in the world of high fashion. Having worked under acclaimed artists like Florian and atelier Ted Noten, Chaca most recently created hats and accessories for Moonspoon Saloon. Her signature pieces have appeared in Kokon to Zai and most recently Henrik Vibskov’s flagship stores, appealing to a sophisticated and aware clientele. Chaca’s eye for precision and quality, and her acute sense of style, make her handmade pieces true works of art.
Chaca’s signature style contains geometric shapes, an electric mix of high quality acrylic monochrome and a touch of gold. It is a fusion of Nordic austerity and minimalist adventures. An exploration of materials distinguishes her work, while her signature black rope acts as a link tying her collection together. Chaca’s pieces exude elegance, couture finish and attention to detail.
Chaca applies her aesthetic to the creation of functional objects such as weaponry and gadgets. Her most recent creation, Chaca’s World, is a series of ten collections focusing on evoking our innermost desires. A ninja necklace awakens the spy; a samurai sword necklace our inner poser and a police baton reflects desire for control – all characters in Chaca’s playful narrative. She invites the wearer to indulge in her fantasies, and to live out their own.
Created in 2011, the eponymous Berlin based French label never changed its basic principles since its foundations. Aurelia Paumelle aims to create a men’s wear line composed of rewritten classics or basic. She refuses to submit herself to the dictature of the ephemeral. She intends to create intemporal pieces. It’s not about refusing trends, it’s just that she wants to take care of men bodies, by giving them volumes that respect all body dimensions and moves. And the body is not a trend, body is not a temporary buzz : it won’t change from a season to another. Her collections insist on slightl differences of tone, cut, fabric or definition. One collection may initially seem to be similar to another, but their subtle details make them unique.
Collaborations and partnerships are the engine of her work right now: with others designers, musicians or artists. The priority for Aurelia is also to keep the good balance for her label: high quality design, handmade and local production. And to realize a new fashion challenge: all gender, men as women, should be able to recognize themselves by wearing Aurelia Paumelle garment. To make a new change, and go from Men Clothing to Clothing, only.
Simone Rainer was born in Vipiteno in 1985. At the age of eighteen, he moved to Milan. After abandoning the idea of pursuing a mathematical degree, Simone Rainer chose to move to Milan signing up for a fashion institute where he began to follow a tailor’s course. Throughout this experience, Simone explored his abilities within the textile industry, abilities already been put to the test in his early years by his grandmother who was a tailor herself.
After having finished his studies, Rainer began working for Italian and foreign companies and developed during this journey a profound passion for accessories. As a designer, Simone Rainer finds his true passion in one particular material: leather, not only characterized by its vivid features but also its capacity to change throughout time and conserve the marks of its path, an ongoing transformation observed by the owner of the object.
The brand Simone Rainer was founded in 2011, driven by the wish to combine two seemingly different worlds: one being the leather sector representing tradition and craftsmanship, and the other one being the universe of geometry with all its projections generated by the mathematical force of perfection.
Sasa Kovacevic is a Berlin designer currently based in New York. He studied at Kunsthochschule-Berlin and graduated in 2010. His collections are produced in Germany.
“Sadak” is the ancient name for a traditional sleeveless jacket worn in some Balkan regions. The label aims to preserve the magical meaning of “Sadak” in its original oral and visual context, while transforming and adapting it to contemporary reality.
In essence, Sadak wants to communicate pride in individuality. His clothing is innovative and unique, while still incorporating distinctive elements from a variety of preceding periods and ethnic cultures, using the power and aura of their mystical and poetic narratives. The various ethnic inspirations for the collections are essentially what make them so unique in character. It’s not only the collection as a whole that comes with a motive, it’s the individual works themselves.
The key elements in Sadak’s oeuvre remain constant: current proportions, ongoing research of fabrics and textures, and above all the interplay of pure construction with the body and psyche of both contemporary fashion and art.
Großer Heinrich is a Berlin-based fashion label founded by Astrid Großer and Gerti Heinrich. The designers met at University of Applied Science and Arts Hannover during their studies and worked together since 2006.
In 2009, Großer and Heinrich graduated with their final collection “Die Flügelchen machen die Bären so lustig” which was awarded the first prize of Baltic Fashion Award 2010 for “Best female Pret a Porter Collection”.
Since their foundation as a label in 2010, Großer Heinrich develop one women’s pret-a-porter collection each season which they present at Paris Fashion Week. They presented their work at Berlin Fashion Week (AW11/12) and took part in Mados Infeckija Fashion Festival in Vilnius / Lithuania 2011 and 2012.
Their mix of deeply colored organic prints, heavy flowing and breezy knits with smooth drapes are currently sold in Asia, Barcelona, Vienna and Berlin. Summer 2013, Großer Heinrich launched their own online shop.
The label enjoys a fruitful cooperation with German knitting companies and produce their collections exclusively in Germany.
Fashion/art label Tata Christiane was founded 2007 in Berlin by Julie Bourgeois and Hanri Gabriell. Apart from the production of elaborate collections that blur the division between avant-garde fashion and art, Tata Christiane stands for extensive collaborations in the field of theatre, performance, film, photography and music.
Tata Christiane’s style combines a quirky elegance with a punk attitude and artful use of bad taste. Design, cut, and materials add up to what can be described as baroque Streetwear. The team take their inspiration from elaborate historic costumes and the more grotesque expressions of old lady’s wear. The resulting works posses a disturbed sense of beauty, marked by decay, extravagance and excess.
Kindly supported by Our/Berlin Vodka